Indeed, the COCOON DRESS is made by uniting two identical size and shaped pieces of fabric. As a result, we have a dress that barely touches the body, going straight from head to bottom. There are no darts, tucks, or cutting lines. If the dress has sleeves, these are following the same concept of the dress, going down from shoulders to the wrest, looking voluminous. This dress is usually knee length or slightly lower.

The cocoon dress is a distinctive style of dress that first emerged in the early 20th century, and it is often associated with the innovative designs of the Spanish fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga. Balenciaga, known for his revolutionary approach to silhouette and form, is credited with introducing the cocoon dress in the 1950s. His designs played a significant role in shaping modern fashion with their emphasis on sculptural and architectural lines.

The history tells, that in 1951, Cristobal Balenciga has created the costume with the “butterfly” silhouette, a model that was warmly encountered. Women finally had an elegant and stylish garment, allowing hiding some extra kilos on the waistline and hips, without feeling guilty or embraced.

Here are the distinctive elements of the Cocoon dress:

• A unique silhouette, which is broad at the shoulders and narrows down towards the hem, creating a cocoon-like shape. This silhouette represents a departure from the cinched waists and voluminous skirts that were popular in women's fashion prior to the 1950s.
• The Balenciaga's cocoon dresses were noted for their volume and structured form. Instead of relying on heavy corsetry or padding, Balenciaga achieved this through masterful cutting and seaming techniques, allowing the fabric itself to create the shape.
• Despite the dramatic silhouette, cocoon dresses often feature a minimalist aesthetic, with clean lines and a lack of excessive decoration.
• The choice of fabric was crucial for the cocoon dress, with Balenciaga often opting for luxurious and innovative materials that could hold the structured shape while still offering movement and comfort.
• Some cocoon dresses featured distinctive back designs, such as a lower back that might be more fitted or feature interesting details like bows or folds, contrasting with the otherwise enveloping shape.

A similar creation launched another great designer of those times, Hubert de Givenchy. His designs played a significant role in redefining women's fashion with a focus on simplicity and elegance. In 1957, they both released collections of the cocoon dress. However, the highest popularity this model got in the Seventies, and later in the Nineties.

Which are the best accessories to wear with such a dress?

- First of all, based on the dress length, we must choose the size of the heel. If the dress is floor length, the best will be a pair of flat sandals or ballerinas; while with knee length, you can choose a high heel you desire (excluding maybe wedges and platforms that may look clumsy with such a dress).

- As for the purse, the most appropriate shape and size would be a clutch.

- Yet another great accessory to this look will offer a pair of beautiful gloves, long to cover the elbows, or, on the contrary, short and unique in style.

- This model dress is bold and avant-guarde, so wearing fine jewelry with it might not be a proper choice. Better point out wearing minimum pieces, which can make a strong statement and balance the look. For example, a maxi bracelet, or a massive necklace made of a few chains or beads.

Another variant of this dress is the so-called SACK dress. It covers all, from the chestline and waistline to the knees. The entire dress is a rebellion agains classical canons of femininity and sexuality. Therefore, one must decide if to keep the rebelion feeling, therefore use it in the military style or grange; or, wear it with more feminine accessories, therefore transform the look into a casual style.

Nevertheless, Hubert de Givenchy is the designer most often credited with the creation of the SACK DRESS, also known as the "chemise" or "shift" dress:

• Unlike the cocoon dress, which narrows toward the hem, the sack dress falls straight from the shoulders to the hem without cinching at the waist or hips. This creates a loose, rectangular silhouette that was quite revolutionary at the time.
• The sack dress is noted for its simplicity and lack of embellishment. It was designed to be comfortable and liberating, allowing women to move away from the restrictive garments of previous decades.
• A universal silhouette, was versatile and could be dressed up or down. It served as a canvas for accessories, allowing for a range of looks from casual to formal.
• While the cocoon dress might use stiffer fabrics to maintain its shape, the sack dress often utilized softer materials that draped naturally, emphasizing the garment's loose fit.

The sack dress was a forerunner to the more relaxed and minimalist styles that would become popular in the 1960s and beyond. It signaled a shift towards more practical and comfortable women's attire.

Both the sack dress and the cocoon dress were revolutionary in their times for challenging traditional notions of femininity and silhouette in women's fashion. While Balenciaga's cocoon dress focused on architectural volume and a distinctive silhouette, Givenchy's sack dress championed simplicity, comfort, and a break from the structured shapes of the past. Each, in its way, contributed to the evolution of modern fashion by introducing concepts of freedom and innovation in dress.

Mainly, the SACK dress covers all, from the chest line and waistline to the knees. The entire dress is a rebellion against classical canons of femininity and sexuality. Therefore, one must decide if to keep the rebellion feeling, therefore use it in the military style or grange; or, wear it with more feminine accessories, therefore transform the look into a casual style.

Moreover, there is a third variant, the SHIFT dress, characterized by mini length, a straight silhouette, no accent on the waistline, and free on the hips-line. It got the name “shift” to symbolize the changes in society from the Fifties to the Sixties of the last century. That was a period, when the American youth generation was expanding, reflecting independence and freedom of judgment.

Many contemporary designers and fashion houses have embraced and reinterpreted the cocoon silhouette, integrating it into their collections to reflect current trends while paying homage to the architectural and sculptural qualities that define the style, such as:

• Balenciaga has continued to explore and reinterpret its heritage, including the cocoon silhouette, in contemporary collections.
• Comme des Garçons is a brand renowned for avant-garde approach to fashion, often incorporating exaggerated silhouettes and structures, including the cocoon shape.
• Issey Miyake is known for innovative pleating techniques and a focus on the body's movement within clothing, often featuring voluminous shapes and architectural forms that echo the cocoon silhouette's ethos.
• Jil Sander is another brand known for its minimalist aesthetic, has also played with volume and structure in a way that nods to the cocoon silhouette, offering a more subdued and wearable interpretation.
• Rick Owens often incorporates exaggerated and sculptural forms into his collections, playing with proportions in a way that sometimes reflects the essence of the cocoon shape.

These designers are just a few examples of how the cocoon silhouette continues to influence fashion. The reinterpretation of this silhouette by contemporary designers demonstrates the enduring appeal of architectural shapes in clothing and the ongoing dialogue between fashion's past and present.

The same was witnessed with the sack dress, with its minimalist and relaxed silhouette, that continues to inspire contemporary fashion designers. The modern iteration of the sack dress reflects a broader trend towards comfort, simplicity, and fluidity in fashion, often seen in collections of the brands like:

• Céline (Phoebe Philo era) was marked by a minimalist aesthetic and relaxed silhouettes that often echoed the simplicity of the sack dress.
• The Row (founded by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen) is a fashion brand celebrated for its focus on exceptional fabrics, precise tailoring, and simplicity. The brand's collections often feature sack dress-inspired silhouettes that are both sophisticated and effortlessly chic.
• COS is well known for its modern, functional, and considered design, offering clothing that often includes sack dress silhouettes, characterized by clean lines and relaxed fits that appeal to contemporary tastes.
• Eileen Fisher is another brand synonymous with comfort, sustainability, and simplicity, its designs include sack dress-inspired pieces that prioritize ease of wear and timeless appeal.
• Vince offering modern, understated luxury, featuring relaxed silhouettes reminiscent of the sack dress, designed for a contemporary lifestyle.

These designers and brands are known for their commitment to quality, comfort, and minimalism, qualities that align well with the ethos of the sack dress. In contemporary fashion, the sack dress serves as a canvas for personal expression, allowing wearers to layer, accessorize, and personalize the garment to fit their individual style.

Which are the best accessories to wear with such dresses?

• First of all, based on the dress length, we must choose the size of the heel. If the dress is floor length, the best will be a pair of flat sandals or ballerinas; while with knee length, you can choose a high heel you desire (excluding maybe wedges and platforms that may look clumsy with such a dress).
• As for the purse, the most appropriate shape and size would be a clutch.
• Yet another great accessory to this look will offer a pair of beautiful gloves, long to cover the elbows, or, on the contrary, short and unique in style.
• This model dress is bold and avant-garde, so wearing fine jewelry with it might not be a proper choice. Better point out wearing minimum pieces, which can make a strong statement and balance the look. For example, a maxi bracelet, or a massive necklace made of a few chains or beads.

All these loose-fit dresses, the COCOON, the SACK, and the SHIFT dresses, are discreet, elegant, and meet the requirements of the minimalistic style, clean and simple.

The GOLDEN RULE is saying: with a sophisticated dress, choose simple accessories, and, on the contrary, with a minimalistic dress, choose bold statement jewelry. Makeup and hairstyle must be extremely laconic.

Best wishes,

Nadiya 

MetropolitanMe Blogger